2 days ago, I skipped out of work early to get in a sunset sesh and I’m convinced this is the ocean ratting me out for playing hookey. Of course the week I can actually start work later and end earlier to surf is the week that the conditions are crap. At least for me and my abilities and the fact that I don’t have another surf girl out there with me for safety.

Tuesday I went out and the pictures tell the story: Windy, windy, windy and super choppy, strong currents, weird big sets coming in closed out.

(Windy!)

It was so windy, someone even brought their kite out. You can also get a sense of how windy it was by looking closely at the stair rail where someone’s flyer is pretending to be Superman.

I don’t know what I was thinking going out alone. I think when I saw two other girls suiting up with longboards, I figured since they were going out, I’d be fine. I tried out my new contraption with the neoprene ipod arm band with the new Olympus waterproof camera in it. Of course it worked like a dream in the living room, but since the I was paranoid about the camera, the waves, being out there alone, oh, and the fact that I forgot to take my ring off, I think being preoccupied with all that put me in a funk before even paddling out.

In fact, that last time I was preoccupied with something other than the here and now was 2 summers ago when I got skegged and cut my knee while taking in a fun wave. I cut my knee and came in only to look down and see my leg covered in blood. It probably looked so much worse cos the blood mixed with water. I went to the lifeguard tower to get it bandaged up confirming the fact that I can go back out only if I promise to rinse it out thoroughly when I got home. I was so worried about it getting some kind of infection (because of course I went back out cos it was such a fun sesh up to that point), that I wasn’t paying attention to much else other than the band-aid that I wiped out too close to shore and twisted my ankle.

So, after having that flashback, realizing I still had on my ring, tying it up on the lanyard thingie with the camera, I paddled out. I suppose I should post the video on YouTube and have the link just so I can reference how crappy it was, but it wasn’t good. Plus about 3 min. into it, a strong wave came and shoved the arm band (with camera and ring) down my forearm and I caught it just in time before it slipped off.

I stayed out for about 25 minutes, came in, sat on the beach and watched the other two girls, who were splashing around in the mush, and decided to come back in. I haven’t come in from surfing in anything less than an hour and a half (and that was dawn patrol), in years. It was very humbling, although I felt a little better because there were some shortboarders out not getting much of anything either. It was a definite reminder that winter was coming because I was cold, the waves were much bigger and without sounding too cliche, there was definitely something in the air.

It feels like forever since I’ve really been in the water…the withdrawl is still lingering. I’m hoping that Friday, taking the day off and driving down to Doheny to surf that little break for the first time will make up for it. And if that doesn’t feed the need, next week at this time, I’ll be in Mexico, resting up from the red eye hoping to try Sayulita in the afternoon. What’s sad is that the days of pre and apres work sessions during the week are over because when we get back, it’ll be daylight savings. Plus, I just know that this week was a fluke with work and with everyone getting back next week, it’s going to be back to the regular grind.