This is Boo and today is my first time writing on our blog – I’ve clearly been remiss, leaving the task up to my prolific Bunny P. She pointed today out that since my memory isn’t always at peak performance, I should remember this day of surfing with a little blog writing. So, here I am.

While the title of this post might easily be mistaken for some sort of political call to action, it is in fact describing the days’ surf experience for this odd breed of surfer – a regular footer who loves to go left. I love lefts! I go left on lefts, I stupidly try and power through a good right by going left, I just love to open up and take a sweet left. I ride a Robert August 9′0 – I wonder if Mr. August is a goofy and bred that into my board?

That said, today everything changed. It was kind of chilly today, cloudy, cool, water and air around 60 degrees. I “borrowed” Bunny P’s supersuit – the Roxy 3/2 Cell and was perfectly warm (except one lull where it got a little windy). I love that suit! It feels like I’m wearing a super warm rash guard – so amazingly flexible, I just want to wear it all winter. Anyway, things started out a little slow and I was having trouble catching waves. I’d paddle my ass off and nothing and was getting a little frustrated. It was a little bigger than yesterday and I didn’t want to get caught in the falls, so I think I was being a little cautious.

I finally caught a wave and what a wave it was! I went right and immediately got solidly right in the wave. I’m just starting to get comfortable judging the wave while I’m in it and looking at the wave and making adjustments to stay in it. This wave just kept going and going and it was the closest I’ve ever been to getting barreled. If I would have crouched just a little more, I think I could have gotten a little coverage – that would have rocked. But I was loving this wave even without getting barreled, I was trimming away, I’d drop and turn, drop and turn, and the wave just kept going and I thought what the hell, I’ll just take this thing to the beach – and I did! Afterward I did my happy dance. I do one of two things after a good wave – I giggle under the water, or I do my happy dance. Today it was all about the happy dance.

That was the first of probably 10 or 15 decent rights – and I am NOT a right-y! But I might be after today It wouldn’t have been a great day of surfing if I didn’t have a good left – I definitely got a couple of those in too – happy dances all around. So all is not lost with my precious lefts.

Today was a great day of surfing – three hours with my BunnyP, our friends M and S and a varying crowd – at one point it was just the four of us and one other woman – the girls club – and other times it was up to maybe 12 people – not crowded at all. All I know is that we were out there longer than anyone – our arms definitely fell off today! We didn’t see dolphins today but Bunny and M saw a seal – M thought it looked like a lab at first.

The sky was really interesting today. We could see rain all around us – up toward Santa Monica, out toward Catalina, but we never got hit. There was a point when it was super tough to read the waves because the waves and the sky were the very same color and completely blended with each other. I got thrashed a couple of times cuz I didn’t realize just how close the wave was.

At one point Bunny was getting a little frustrated with not being able to catch waves. She was having suit issues, paddling a lot and not catching anything; I could sense her frustration – she wasn’t her happy, smiley, “I’m so excited to be out surfing” self. So I paddled over and asked her if there was anything I could do, could I help her with her wetsuit, something. She said no and told me she wasn’t catching anything and clearly bummed. Sometimes it just takes a little word of encouragement to move things in a different direction. I didn’t want to be all schmaltzy and say – Oh, it’ll be okay, you’ll do better, keep at it Bun. So I just said, “now’s the time.” Bunny looked at me a little funny and we paddled off our separate ways and she proceeded to get her first kick ass wave and many more kick ass waves followed. I’m not saying I’m responsible, I just gave her a little nudge, a little different way of seeing the day. We had a great day!

This is Bunny: today I had my very first cross step. It was only one small step and I got up about 6 inches from the logo on my board, but I was stoked. Oh…and after that wave I caught that Boo magically bestowed on me, as soon as I got off my board, I didn’t do the “happy dance” or “giggle”, I threw my fists up in the arm and said “Thank you God!”. Appropriately, on a Sunday.